MSRaynsford

I recently switched to the 3DVerkstan design of visor , apparently I don't have any photos yet, the arms and hooks are thicker than the schonne bakkes design so they tend to print more reliably. The indent on the visor brow makes it print just as quickly and the visor can be prepared from A4 sheets and a holepunch so they're easier to replace by the end users if need be. I did however have a request for safety goggles today rather than a full face shield. The schonne bakkes design conveniently already has a snap on screen tailored to fit closely to the face but also large enough to keep your glasses on. I ran a two pairs of specs out quickly today using some acetate scraps and they worked well. I'm still waiting for more sheets to arrive though before I can ramp up to some serious production.

With my Octolapse  set up I was looking for a larger print to film. I set it up to run overnight, 5 hours of printing and 662 layer which led to a nice little timelapse. I also enjoyed spending time today painting it, next step is to find a plant to go inside it. ( stl here )

I have been using OctoPrint  to control my 3D printer over the network, being able to send files directly to it rather than via the cloud is a fantastic use of a raspberry pi. I bought a pi camera to allow me to check in on the printer from another room but it also allows me to take some time lapse footer of the printer in action. Octopi has some timelapse options that take photos every few seconds but I was quite taken with the fancy timelapses where the print head appears to stay stationary and the print appears by magic. There is a plugin for Octoprint called OctoLapse , this can be set up to take smarter timelapses. On my machine I have set it up to detect the change in layer height, each time that happens it moves the print head to the back left corner and takes a new shot. This movement is enough for the slightly wobbly camera mount  to settle and take a good picture. I'm currently printing face shields for some NHS friends, they only have 20 layers so my...

Given the failures of the first camera mount  I found a second design that houses the larger camera lens. This design as a couple of longer arm options that allowed me to put the camera in a better position over the bed, everything fitted first time and felt generally better from the outset (no overhangs/supports/tall prints) the only thing that needed a change was the 2020 mounting bracket. Thankfully someone else had already designed a  right angled bracket  with slotted holes that allow me to point the camera at a more appropriate angle. Every joint is articulated which allowed me to move the camera to the best position, the only minor issue is that the arm is a bit thin so the camera becomes a bit wobbly while the printer is printing.

I wanted to monitor my 3D printer remotely and take some timelapse photos of prints in operation so I purchased a raspberry Pi camera, because it was an easy way to tie in with Octoprint  and I printed myself a camera mount while I waited for the camera to arrive. While I was trying to fit the ball into the socket the whole thing snapped in two (my socket hadn't printed perfectly). The camera I received had a large lens on it that didn't fit into the gap in the housing, so I didn't bother reprinting it to find out whether it was the design or my printer at fault.

I was looking for something small to test the resolution of my 3D printer and I found this little phone stands . The dragon one is particularly cute and will definitely be helpful to carry as a keyring especially when I'm filming some ninja videos. The next step is to paint it and see if how long the paint will hold up with use.