Here is a prototype for a porthole I'm currently making. It does have a functional hinge made with a 6mm dowel but the catches aren't functional yet. The window is made from 3mm perspex and the rest from 6mm poplar although I'll be moving over to birch shortly to get a more woody effect from it.
365 laser cut items in 365 days. I provide the files so you can make your own copies and if you don't have access to a laser then I sell most items too.
Missing an svg file for an item? Have a suggestion for something? email@example.com
Tuesday, 30 August 2016
At first glance this might look like a turkey temperature gauge and you'd be forgiven for thinking that because that's basically what it is. It's actually a laser power meter which is essentially a thermometer for laser beams.
The large black block on the end of the thermometer is a thermal mass to hold the heat and it is placed in the path of the laser beam (usually before mirror 1). The beam is fired for a specific length of time and the laser heats the metal. The temperature change of the metal block is directly proportional to the amount of power being output by the laser. The whole gauge is calibrated to the dial by the length of time to fire the beam, in our case 15.3 seconds.
You have to let the gauge cool down between measurements, although you can hurry that along by dunking it in cold water. There is also an adjustment knob on the back which allows you rotate the scale so that zero lines up with the needles current position.
This also qualifies as a laser cut item, Dominic dropped it the other day and smashed the glass. I bought it home and 30 seconds later we had a new perspex screen to go into the gap :)
Monday, 29 August 2016
This simple burr puzzle is cut from 9mm poplar (mostly because I couldn't find my 10mm perspex. It is made from 12 identical pieces but the parts need cuts in 2 axis. This is achieved by cutting the first side and then flipping the piece within the hole.(svg here)
This picture shows the various steps number from top to bottom, normally I would cut 6 pieces at once and this picture is for illustration only.
- Cut the outline and the cut outs for the first piece.
- Remove the piece, being careful not to bump the outline
- Remove the shrapnel from the hole
- Insert the puzzle piece back into the hole but rotated through 90 degrees.
- Cut the next set of cut outs
- Remove the finished piece from the outline.
Sunday, 28 August 2016
Saturday, 27 August 2016
Pokemon evolve into other Pokemon and I thought it would be quite cool to convey that in a tray puzzle with the names on it as well. To convey better silhouettes and make the shapes stand out from the tray I made them with 5mm black perspex. The tray is 2 layers of standard poplar ply and all the text is hershey text done with marking for a fast cut.
Friday, 26 August 2016
I simply can't understand how you can buy a laser pointer and have it delivered to your house for less than £1 but I'm not going to complain about it. Instead I'm just going to strap one to my little shark model and use it to bug the cat (and children), yay lasers!
I wanna be the very best, like no one ever was. To draw them was my real test, to cut them is my cause. Anyway, so that's Pokemon set 103-150 all original 150 Generation 1 Pokemon drawn and cut, they make a fairly epic collection and with that many to stack there are infinite combinations. The actually Pokemon collection was done by Jadael over on Imgur but a fair few of the silhouettes needed modding before they were cuttable. Like most things they should probably go up in my shop but for now... (svg here)
Here are some tips for making items like these, this set is Pokemon 52 through to 102. I cut the 9mm ply on a fairly high power, this ensures that the cut goes all the way through regardless of blemishes in the material and then you know each piece can be easily removed. This causes quite a lot of burning on the underside of the material due to reflections from the honeycomb bed. Once a set has been cut I often secure all the pieces back into the framework using masking tape across the top side of the material. This allows me to lift all the pieces out of the machine at once. I can then flip the whole sheet and sand the reverse down while they are still in the framework. It's much easier than juggling individual tiny pieces.
I guess for something like this you could also mask the reverse so that most of the burning would be on the masking tape instead of the work piece.